Pattern on the Knitting Machine
Ruth Lee
BT Batsford Ltd publishing
1990
Contents
Introduction
1. Single bed patterned knitting
Experimenting with the pattern card
Single-bed samples
Using two contrasting colours
Increasing colour and textural awareness
Using different yarns
Larger-scale designs
2. Double-bed Jacquard knitting
Method of production
Examples
Understanding the Jacquard punchcard
Converting a standard single-bed card to Jacquard
Brother machines
Equipment required to produce double-bed Jacquard
The different types of Jacquard fabric
Using exotic and unusual fibres
Using other yarns suitable for Jacquard
3. Designing for 2-colour knitting
Suggested themes for design ideas
Finding a method of working for simple pattern ideas
Designing a suitable shape for repeat pattern
Varying the design format
Transferring the design from graph-paper
4. Intarsia knitting
The intarsia method
Choosing the appropriate method
Dedication and patience
Equipment and materials
First attempts
Samples
Transferring the images into knitting
Sampling for intarsia – sources for colour and pattern
Mixing yarns
Morse samples
5. Partial knitting as a decorative technique
Basic experiments in partial knitting using plain knitting
Pattern-card knitting combined with partial knit
Miscellaneous samples
6. Slitted surfaces and mixed techniques
Slitted surface samples
7. Applied shapes on to knitted backgrounds
Combining knitted backgrounds with applied vertical stripes
Applying triangles and asymmetrical shapes to plain or patterned bases
Intarsia backings and overlays
Combining triangles, pattern card and twisted stripes on knitted bases
Stitching applied shapes on to a background
8. Unusual combinations of technique
Simple geometric patterns using shaped intarsia and partial knit
Combining partial and patterned knit, intarsia and slits
Miscellaneous techniques
9. Developing previous samples and experiments
Creating exotic patterned surfaces
Versatility of decorative pattern
Appendices
Computer aided design machine knitting
Suppliers of knitting machines and accessories
List of suppliers
Bibliography
Index
Black and white photographs, sketches and diagrams throughout. 8 Colour pages.
The book is about techniques of patterning on a machine - creating patterned fabric.
It
gives step by step directions on how to knit the many and various
samples, from punchcard design, partial knitting, applied shapes and
more. Mostly black and white photographs and diagrams but with 8 pages
of colour photos.
"Perhaps it is worth considering here the
limitations imposed by fine-gauge jacquard. the limitations are mainly
in the width of any one complete piece of knitting. A rough measurement
of Sample 62 provides a gauge of 40 stitches = 10cm (3.9in), which means
that 200 needles (the full bed) would produce a width of around 50cm
(19.5in). If the tension was even lower - say 1/1 or 2/2 - less width
would be achieved. If this is noted at the start of any project the
garment or piece can be designed in sections, and this necessary
procedure can be incorporated in the design of the piece."
